Jessamy had a much better night in Katherine. Her temperature settled down and she seemed more energetic. We swam at the Katherine Hot Springs- the water was so warm and clear. On the way south we dropped in to the historic Springvale Homestead. The original white settlers had spent two years driving their sheep from South Australia to the area near Katherine, only to have the farm fail some years later.
Our first stop was at the Daly Waters Pub (campground!!)- one very unique establishment with collections of just about everything- kettles, thongs, number plates and t shirts etc. After flushing the toilet one determined little green tree frog popped out from under the toilet rim. It struggled mightily against the tide and managed to avoid being flushed, thankfully. When showering I noticed no less than ten of its friends standing sentry all around the bathroom.
Our next stop was the Three Ways Roadhouse, where the Barkly and Stuart Highways meet. Jess unfortunately developed an ear infection and had another difficult night. I felt sorry for our neighbours, all grandparent types probably trying to enjoy their retirement without kids! On the way to Camoweal we noticed the scenery changing- less desert and more cows and trees, but still very dry. Greg particularly enjoying comparing road design in the different council areas (who said holiday?!). On arrival in Camoweal, Qld, a few hundred km since our last stop, we were allocated our powered site- right next to the same nice people who put up with Jessamy's noise last night! They were very understanding about it thankfully, and Jess assured them she wouldn't make as much noise again. With some magic panadol she didn't.
In Mt Isa we tried to find a doctor for Jess but couldn't (short of going to A&E, which we didn't want to do), so we kept her out of the pool and let the ear heal itself. In Mt Isa we had a look at the Flying Doctors. What a brilliant service to those in remote areas, something we've come to appreciate recently. One night we had dinner out which was a lovely break. We have so far stuck to our 'No Maccas' rule this trip, not too hard really as we haven't come across many.
After two days at Mt Isa we headed out through Cloncurry and up to the Burke and Wills Roadhouse. There were lots of road trains full of cattle. Our favourite were the beautiful gray Droughtmasters. Cane toads are absolutely everywhere. Archie is keen to see them hopping on the road as we told them they do in some places. Greg had his Fathers' Day breakfast here and enjoyed getting chocolate, a motorbike magazine from Darcy (questionable idea) and a novel which has kept him amused when he's not driving.
On the way to Karumba we stopped near the Normanton Railway Station. Some ginormous brolgas watched us eat lunch. Then on to Karumba, which is near the bottom of the 'V' which forms the Gulf of Carpentaria. Here the kids played in the dirt, and we all swam in the pool and walked along the beach watching people catch fish.
On the Monday it was Jessamy's 4th birthday. We invited two little boys that were camping nearby- Bosco and Sawyer- who had been travelling for 18 months. In the afternoon we had pass the parcel and musical statues, with some party food and cake. The kids then went back to the dirt, this time mixing in water and making mud bombs. Then another swim, this time with the ridiculously expensive Mermaid Barbie birthday present. This was the lowest stress party we've ever had! I wonder if it would work in Newcastle?
Stopping again in Normanton on the way east we were swooped by a possessive magpie while looking at the less scary model of a crocodile. This crocodile 'Krys' was reportedly the largest ever found, at 8.93m long, in the Normanton River in the 1950s. We stopped overnight near the Uranda National Park with the intention of visiting the undeground lava tubes the next day. However as it would have cost us $136 to do this we decided against it. The more we see of Queensland, the more we notice how expensive it can be to do anything touristy. I understand the need to maintain the natural resources well, but it seems unreasonable to charge so much that average families would find these places difficult to visit. We could easily spend several hundred dollars a day doing just one or two activites.
Finally we got to Mareeba where we visited the Coffee Works. The kids were sat down with an activity sheet and told if they completed it they would get a prize (chocolate) at the end. This very clever idea meant Greg and I were able to taste lots of yummy coffee and chocolate. We also got to pick coffee beans of the bushes and taste them- very sweet- and see inside the roastery. At the caravan park in Mossman that night I wasn't able to get to sleep for a long time!
The next day we drove into the Daintree Rainforest, first travelling over the Daintree River by car ferry. I fell asleep after my late night so didn't point Greg to the turnoff, and we ended up at Cape Tribulation. That turned out really well- the beach was almost deserted and the rainforest coming down to the water was spectacular. The kids had a bit of a swim as the water was so warm. Not too far out though due to the crocodile signs (it's OK mum they are fine!). We headed up dirt road and crossed a creek, where we paddled and fed the fish around our ankles. During a little walk in the rainforest we spotted a Cassowary which was great as there aren't many left in the wild. On the way home we stopped for icecream. The 'flavours of the day' were Wattle Seed, Coconut, Rasberry and Jackfruit. We all liked the Wattle Seed best. It tasted a bit like coffee.
Our caravan became Kid Central again when we got back. We usually have lego or matchbox cars set out on the picnic rug and something else like playdough or painting on the table, so often have extra kids joining in. Lots of grandparent types comment on what a large family we have, so we then explain that actually only four of them are ours.
Glad Jess is better!
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